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Setting Update!!!

May 9, 2013 2 comments
New Right Dojo

New Right Dojo

Another look...

Another look…

Jonny, Danny, Connor, Ian Dory, Lily, and I set 30-something new problems out the roof and on the Right wall.

Highlights

There are some nice balance/technique testers on different styles of holds–slopey, crimp, pinch, disc–in the 3+, 4-, 4 range on the far right, as well as a fun 2-.

Lily set a long 4+ traverse out from the inside right side of the cave (white with a blue strip) that gets easier as you go and is good for working endurance and body tension on mostly flat holds.

Ian D set a white 4- that climbs straight out the roof on comfortable incut flakes and eases up at the lip.

Jonny set a pink 5 out the roof that has a pogo-double-dyno on it.

There are actually several dynos in the roof, if you are into that sort of thing. Check out my red 4 that starts on the right wall inside of the roof, and check out Connor’s dark green 5- that starts in the middle of the roof and dynos straight out.

Connor also set an awesome 5-, white, on the right arete that climbs up into the large orange myorcean tufa (just right of the climber in the photo above).

Danny set some awesome 4+s and also a really cool tensiony 5 (black, right wall).

I put up a purple juggy spectacular that climbs out the right side of the roof on some huge holds.

Next week we’re resetting the Beach.

Enjoy!

The boys set off in search of new terrain.

After lunch the boys set off in search of new terrain. They didn’t get far.

Setting Update + Mini-Comp + 2 Years, and what has changed?

December 6, 2012 Leave a comment

Setting Update

As you know, we had the Highballs & Highlines comp last week. That means this week was the first part of the reset. We got problems up on the Dojo, Full Hueco, Full River, and Full Font. Next week, the Beach!

Mini Comp

Things were a little different than normal because we ran a mock-onsight comp for our Comp Team to get them ready for Regionals this weekend in Fort Collins. We closed off the Dojo and Back Hueco and set 4 sets of 3 boulders of ascending difficulty. Each set had the first problem on the Right Dojo or in the cave, the 2nd problem on the Back Hueco Scoop, and the 3rd problem on the Left Dojo Belly.

The format is 4 minutes on, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes rest, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes on, etc…  If you finish the problem you get to rest the remainder of that 4 minute climbing period + your 4 minute rest period before climbing again. Tries count, so you want to onsight. If you’d like to check them out, here are the sets:

Set 1

Female Jr/Male Youth A (16-17) – Purple Tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo arete, compression, 4+

Prob 2  Starts on right side of back scoop on two purple e-grips scoops, moves up and left through scoop, finishes by downclimb. 4+

Prob 3  Starts on left side of Left Dojo Belly, big moves up thin crimps, 5-

~

Set 2

Female Youth B (14-15) – Blue tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo by Yosemite Wall 4/-

Prob 2  Back Hueco Scoop, starts on yellow sloper on left side and moves up and right. (This problem was also used for Youth C) 4-

Prob 3  Left Dojo starts on right side, moves left through good holds and straight up. 4

~

Set 3

Female Youth C/Male Youth C (12-13) – Orange Tape (and blue for prob 2)

Prob 1  Starts left side of Dojo Cave, climbs straight out. 4

Prob 2  Shared with FYB Prob 2 – Yellow sloper on left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right, blue tape. 4-

Prob 3  Starts on large red rail on left side of Left Dojo, climbs up through pinches. Orange 4+

~

Set 4

Youth D (11 and under) – White Tape

Prob 1  Starts back right Dojo Cave, climbs straight out to lip. 3+

Prob 2  Starts Left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right. 4-

Prob 3  Starts left arete of Left Dojo Belly, climbs out face, then back up and left. 4/+

~

2 Years…

At lunch yesterday Jonny, Connor, Jon, and I decided to take a shot like the shot for the Colorado Daily that our friend, photographer Greg Mionske took a few years ago. When I got home I found the old shot and realized they were taken almost exactly two years apart. We are more-or-less the same…Jon looks older and he and I are both wearing updated Sportiva Hoodies from the old ones we were wearing in the original. Connor and Jonny both seem to be wearing the same pants and Jonny perhaps the same jacket as well. Connor’s got a little bit more of a beard. Overall though, as Jon said, “What are we doing with our lives?!”

BenchShotsoldandnew

Quick Setting Update

November 7, 2012 Leave a comment

This week we added a bunch of climbs to both sides of the Dojo and Hueco boulders. Next week, the Beach!

The week of Thanksgiving is pre-comp week so there will either be a light set, adding problems without stripping anything, or no set, depending on setters’ schedules. We’ll keep you posted.

Get in here and check out the new problems!

Setting Update for March 13th and 14th

March 14, 2012 Leave a comment

Reset Update

We reset the Dojo…

Several setters came in and stripped late Monday night to make sure we’d have enough holds for Tuesday (since density is up most of our holds are up on the walls right now). Though he’s been extremely busy with school and coaching, Garrett came in and helped us and ended up setting a problem as well. It’s on the far left of the Dojo and actually starts on the river wall and moves right into the Dojo at that sweet new DRCC sloper you can see in the left edge of the above picture. 3 more of those awesome slopers are spread across the left Dojo and are on problems from 4- to 5+.

Tuesday it was me, Jay Jay, Danny, Nic, Jon, and guest setter Gabor. Wednesday it was me, Danny, Jon, Nic, and guest setter Alton Richardson.

I forgot to take a picture so I just trolled his Facebook and came up with this one. Alton Richardson Self Portrait.

Alton just finished up a stint at Urban Climber Magazine and now he runs shoes around the La Sportiva Warehouse and interns with Jon and Jordan at LT11. He grew up in California and used to set out there, so we brought him in to help us give the Dojo a much needed reset. Thanks for your help Alton!

As of Wednesday afternoon there are 45 new problems from 2 spot (yep, there’s one 2 and several 3s and 3+s) to 5+. Several accessible problems climb out the middle and sides of the big roof, the bulge, and the far right side of the dojo, and there are many difficult problems to test yourselves on as well.

Problem Of The Week

Problem of the week goes to Nic Sherman who put up this gem:

Location: Right Dojo

Nic’s problem starts on that e-grips loaf and climbs up through an e-grips sidepull and a Teknik gaston to some cool moves off a custom Revolution sloper, an older So Ill sloper, and another Revolution sloper to the big pink Climb-it feature at the top of the picture.

Enjoy!

Quick Reset Update + An Interesting Solution

February 9, 2012 4 comments

Reset Update

So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.

 

An Interesting Solution

A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:

Ok, so she's got the volume. Now how to get to the cone?

Ok, so maybe try a heel up?

And rock. This does not look super comfortable...

Yes, it did work. Apparently she does yoga. A lot. Nice job on finding an original solution to this boulder problem!

Gun Show Setting Has Begun

September 21, 2011 Leave a comment

Tonight we stripped the Dojo and the Beach.  Tomorrow we’re setting ’em, but the rest of the gym is still open for your climbing pleasure.  Tomorrow night around 9 we’re gonna start dropping walls, but as usual there should be some left to climb on until regular closing time at 11pm.  Fun!  Jon and Johnny are both unavailable for this comp, but luckily Donell is able to help us out.  Get psyched!

So how hard are the open finals gonna be?

This hard!

Setting Update for 7/5 and 7/6

July 6, 2011 Leave a comment

Jonny givin' it to his pink problem. Check out the volumes!

The Dojo is all brand new.  Yesterday Nic, Carlo, Garrett, Jon, Danny, and Jay Jay stripped and set several problems, mostly on the left side of the Dojo as Carlo took the opportunity of the blank right wall to put up the 4 triangle volumes and set a white boulder reminiscent of a World Cup competition problem.  Jon also managed to set a top notch simulator, on that wall, the top hold of which you can see in the middle right side of the above photo.

New Right Dojo

Today Jay Jay and Garrett were gone and Jonny and I were here and we added a bunch of problems to the whole Dojo so now there should be plenty for you to climb including the full range of 4 spots (and assorted other problems) going out the middle of the big roof.  The blue 4- is the easiest of the bunch, and really might be 3+, so if you’ve never tried climbing out the dojo but always wanted to now might be the time.

Enjoy!

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