Setting Update!!!

New Right Dojo

Another look…

Jonny, Danny, Connor, Ian Dory, Lily, and I set 30-something new problems out the roof and on the Right wall.

Highlights

There are some nice balance/technique testers on different styles of holds–slopey, crimp, pinch, disc–in the 3+, 4-, 4 range on the far right, as well as a fun 2-.

Lily set a long 4+ traverse out from the inside right side of the cave (white with a blue strip) that gets easier as you go and is good for working endurance and body tension on mostly flat holds.

Ian D set a white 4- that climbs straight out the roof on comfortable incut flakes and eases up at the lip.

Jonny set a pink 5 out the roof that has a pogo-double-dyno on it.

There are actually several dynos in the roof, if you are into that sort of thing. Check out my red 4 that starts on the right wall inside of the roof, and check out Connor’s dark green 5- that starts in the middle of the roof and dynos straight out.

Connor also set an awesome 5-, white, on the right arete that climbs up into the large orange myorcean tufa (just right of the climber in the photo above).

Danny set some awesome 4+s and also a really cool tensiony 5 (black, right wall).

I put up a purple juggy spectacular that climbs out the right side of the roof on some huge holds.

Next week we’re resetting the Beach.

Enjoy!

After lunch the boys set off in search of new terrain. They didn’t get far.

Setting Update + Mini-Comp + 2 Years, and what has changed?

Setting Update

As you know, we had the Highballs & Highlines comp last week. That means this week was the first part of the reset. We got problems up on the Dojo, Full Hueco, Full River, and Full Font. Next week, the Beach!

Mini Comp

Things were a little different than normal because we ran a mock-onsight comp for our Comp Team to get them ready for Regionals this weekend in Fort Collins. We closed off the Dojo and Back Hueco and set 4 sets of 3 boulders of ascending difficulty. Each set had the first problem on the Right Dojo or in the cave, the 2nd problem on the Back Hueco Scoop, and the 3rd problem on the Left Dojo Belly.

The format is 4 minutes on, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes rest, 30 sec transition, 4 minutes on, etc…  If you finish the problem you get to rest the remainder of that 4 minute climbing period + your 4 minute rest period before climbing again. Tries count, so you want to onsight. If you’d like to check them out, here are the sets:

Set 1

Female Jr/Male Youth A (16-17) – Purple Tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo arete, compression, 4+

Prob 2  Starts on right side of back scoop on two purple e-grips scoops, moves up and left through scoop, finishes by downclimb. 4+

Prob 3  Starts on left side of Left Dojo Belly, big moves up thin crimps, 5-

~

Set 2

Female Youth B (14-15) – Blue tape

Prob 1  Right Dojo by Yosemite Wall 4/-

Prob 2  Back Hueco Scoop, starts on yellow sloper on left side and moves up and right. (This problem was also used for Youth C) 4-

Prob 3  Left Dojo starts on right side, moves left through good holds and straight up. 4

~

Set 3

Female Youth C/Male Youth C (12-13) – Orange Tape (and blue for prob 2)

Prob 1  Starts left side of Dojo Cave, climbs straight out. 4

Prob 2  Shared with FYB Prob 2 – Yellow sloper on left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right, blue tape. 4-

Prob 3  Starts on large red rail on left side of Left Dojo, climbs up through pinches. Orange 4+

~

Set 4

Youth D (11 and under) – White Tape

Prob 1  Starts back right Dojo Cave, climbs straight out to lip. 3+

Prob 2  Starts Left side of Back Hueco Scoop, climbs up and right. 4-

Prob 3  Starts left arete of Left Dojo Belly, climbs out face, then back up and left. 4/+

~

2 Years…

At lunch yesterday Jonny, Connor, Jon, and I decided to take a shot like the shot for the Colorado Daily that our friend, photographer Greg Mionske took a few years ago. When I got home I found the old shot and realized they were taken almost exactly two years apart. We are more-or-less the same…Jon looks older and he and I are both wearing updated Sportiva Hoodies from the old ones we were wearing in the original. Connor and Jonny both seem to be wearing the same pants and Jonny perhaps the same jacket as well. Connor’s got a little bit more of a beard. Overall though, as Jon said, “What are we doing with our lives?!”

Quick Setting Update

This week we added a bunch of climbs to both sides of the Dojo and Hueco boulders. Next week, the Beach!

The week of Thanksgiving is pre-comp week so there will either be a light set, adding problems without stripping anything, or no set, depending on setters’ schedules. We’ll keep you posted.

Get in here and check out the new problems!

Setting Update for March 13th and 14th

Reset Update

We reset the Dojo…

Several setters came in and stripped late Monday night to make sure we’d have enough holds for Tuesday (since density is up most of our holds are up on the walls right now). Though he’s been extremely busy with school and coaching, Garrett came in and helped us and ended up setting a problem as well. It’s on the far left of the Dojo and actually starts on the river wall and moves right into the Dojo at that sweet new DRCC sloper you can see in the left edge of the above picture. 3 more of those awesome slopers are spread across the left Dojo and are on problems from 4- to 5+.

Tuesday it was me, Jay Jay, Danny, Nic, Jon, and guest setter Gabor. Wednesday it was me, Danny, Jon, Nic, and guest setter Alton Richardson.

I forgot to take a picture so I just trolled his Facebook and came up with this one. Alton Richardson Self Portrait.

Alton just finished up a stint at Urban Climber Magazine and now he runs shoes around the La Sportiva Warehouse and interns with Jon and Jordan at LT11. He grew up in California and used to set out there, so we brought him in to help us give the Dojo a much needed reset. Thanks for your help Alton!

As of Wednesday afternoon there are 45 new problems from 2 spot (yep, there’s one 2 and several 3s and 3+s) to 5+. Several accessible problems climb out the middle and sides of the big roof, the bulge, and the far right side of the dojo, and there are many difficult problems to test yourselves on as well.

Problem Of The Week

Problem of the week goes to Nic Sherman who put up this gem:

Location: Right Dojo

Nic’s problem starts on that e-grips loaf and climbs up through an e-grips sidepull and a Teknik gaston to some cool moves off a custom Revolution sloper, an older So Ill sloper, and another Revolution sloper to the big pink Climb-it feature at the top of the picture.

Enjoy!

Quick Reset Update + An Interesting Solution

Reset Update

So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.

 

An Interesting Solution

A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:

Ok, so she's got the volume. Now how to get to the cone?

Ok, so maybe try a heel up?

And rock. This does not look super comfortable...

Yes, it did work. Apparently she does yoga. A lot. Nice job on finding an original solution to this boulder problem!

Gun Show Setting Has Begun

Tonight we stripped the Dojo and the Beach.  Tomorrow we’re setting ’em, but the rest of the gym is still open for your climbing pleasure.  Tomorrow night around 9 we’re gonna start dropping walls, but as usual there should be some left to climb on until regular closing time at 11pm.  Fun!  Jon and Johnny are both unavailable for this comp, but luckily Donell is able to help us out.  Get psyched!

So how hard are the open finals gonna be?

This hard!

Setting Update for 7/5 and 7/6

Jonny givin' it to his pink problem. Check out the volumes!

The Dojo is all brand new.  Yesterday Nic, Carlo, Garrett, Jon, Danny, and Jay Jay stripped and set several problems, mostly on the left side of the Dojo as Carlo took the opportunity of the blank right wall to put up the 4 triangle volumes and set a white boulder reminiscent of a World Cup competition problem.  Jon also managed to set a top notch simulator, on that wall, the top hold of which you can see in the middle right side of the above photo.

New Right Dojo

Today Jay Jay and Garrett were gone and Jonny and I were here and we added a bunch of problems to the whole Dojo so now there should be plenty for you to climb including the full range of 4 spots (and assorted other problems) going out the middle of the big roof.  The blue 4- is the easiest of the bunch, and really might be 3+, so if you’ve never tried climbing out the dojo but always wanted to now might be the time.

Enjoy!

Gladiator Finals Reset Update

As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on.  Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach.  Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session.  No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule.  Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:

On Monday, Carlo dropped a wrench on his face.

On Tuesday, Jon got back from the tradeshow and brought Danny a backpack with his picture on it from their mutual sponsor Revolution. We made him wear it all day.

Then Jon set a very creative start to a boulder in the right dojo.

Danny solved the problem another way, but Jon didn't really fit...

Carlo had to try it out as well...

Then Carlo became a "happy baby chalk bucket" which Jon had to try out. Nic watched with amusement from a hold bucket.

When we got back from lunch we found that somebody made their own very rugged parking spot.

Carlo sporting new Verve 4-way stretch camo Xeno pants while Danny foreruns the Beach.

Danny demonstrating the correct spotting position while Jonny does Carlo's technical blue 5- on the far right beach.

Left River

Right River

Right Dojo

Left Dojo

Hueco Front Scoop

Hueco Front Small Scoop

Hueco Back Scoop

Left Beach

Left Middle Beach

Right Beach

Enjoy!

Highline/Highball Resetting Update #1 + A Silly Headdress

Monday

As usual, we began our reset on the river granite wall.  Jay Jay was in school, so the team for Monday was me, Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, and guest setter Gabor Szekely.

 

Gabor  |  GS

Gabor has been a route setter on and off for several years and has also climbed up to 5.14d, onsighted up to 13d, and bouldered V13 outside.  He occasionally competes as a member of the Hungarian National Team (his home country, though he was raised in the US) he got 18th at last year’s Vail World Cup.

 

New right river

We set some 40 boulders on the river wall, 1 spot to 5+ spot.

 

New Left River

Tuesday

That’s right folks, we reset the Dojo!  Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, me, and guest setter Connor Griffith (who just got back from Switzerland with Carlo and Jon) covered the Dojo in problems including several juggy climbs out the roof of varying difficulties and, on the left bulge, a slightly-easier simulator of a V13 from Black Mountain called Bang-On.  Here are some pictures of the wall and the beginning of the simulator.

Connor Griffith | CG

The New Dojo

Bang-On Simulator start hold

Kelly McBride showing how strong you have to be to climb the Bang-On Simulator.

Headdress

We stripped the stickers off the wall as we set the new problems on the Dojo.  You may have seen some of ’em stuck on ladders or in designs on our foothold bucket.  Today I made a headdress out of some of ’em.

Me modeling version 1 of the headdress

Jaime wearing Version 2 at the Front Desk

Gunshow Finals Highlights Video, Reset Update, and a magical Pegasus

Gun Show Finals Video:

Reset Update:

Today is Wednesday, or, as we like to call it, day 3 of the reset and day 5 of setting in the last 7 days.  We’re taking tomorrow off, but we’ll be back Friday to add more light-fill, probably on the Font boulder.  So far this week we’ve added problems to the River, Dojo, and Beach.  You can read about Monday’s reset of the River here (and see pictures below).

The new Left River wall. Check out those slopers!

River arete--fun for all ages!

The Right River and a little Left Dojo

On Tuesday Jon, Garrett, and I reset the Dojo, meaning this awesome double volume is now accessible via several different routes instead of just the one.

Notice all the brown screw-ons--they're a problem!

More new Dojo

The taping revolution has continued, with these gems on the River:

Red teeth, stripe

Mega-chico

And today Garrett, Jay Jay, Jon, and I set a bunch of problems on the Beach.  I added another Dynofest (to compliment the one Garrett added yesterday on the right Dojo) and everyone set fun problems of all grades.  After lunch we got lucky and Jonny Hork stopped by early for forerunning, so he decided to set a problem.  For those that don’t know, Jonny has been working nights in the ER so he’s been taking off setting for a few weeks.  His overly tired attempts to set a boulder were pretty funny at first, but he somehow didn’t fall off his ladder or drop a hold on anybody and ended up with a pretty neat problem.  It’s on the right Beach, and includes the DRCC Master hold.

Magical Pegasus!

JJ's ode to the dust bunnies

Enjoy all the new problems!