Setting Schedule

The comp season setting schedule is used during most of the the SBS season (from September – March).  During comp season we strip the entire gym for each comp (approximately 1x per month) and set 42-52 comp problems (10 per difficulty bracket: youth, recreational, intermediate, advanced, open + 2 open finals).  On the Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday (and sometimes Thursday and Friday) after the comp we do a light fill (i.e. set a few more problems) throughout the entire gym.  The following week we begin a denser fill on our regular setting rotation.  This dense fill-in will continue until the week before the next comp, when we will not set Tuesday/Wednesday but instead set Thursday (Dojo & Beach closed) and Friday (entire gym closed) for the comp.  Psychedelia requires major decoration and therefore we will be closed on the Wednesday before as well.  If the competition happens to be an ABS Nationals or other major pro event we may have other closure dates, which will be posted on our website and around the gym.

The regular setting schedule is not so much a set-in-stone schedule as the rough order in which we strip the walls and set new problems.  We generally set on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and you can figure out where we are in the rotation by what we set on any given week.  If, for example, we just re-set the left side of the River boulder, the following week we will probably be re-setting the right side of the River.  The week after that it will be the left Dojo.  Etc…  Some weeks we will do an entire boulder/section by setting 3 days instead of two. If the wall only has light fill or it is the week before comp setting week we will often add problems but not strip the old problems.

The Walls

Left River (includes rt. arete)

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Right River

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Font (set all at once) (may come after the dojo instead of before)

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Left Dojo (Set with right, may come before Font)

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Right Dojo (Set with Left, may come before Font)

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Back Scoop of the Hueco (set with Back Right)

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Back Right Hueco (and dihedral) (set with back scoop)

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Big Front Scoop of the Hueco (set with small scoop)

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Small Scoop of the Hueco (set with big scoop)

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Left Beach (all Beach = 1 set)

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Middle Beach (all Beach = 1 set)

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Right Beach (all Beach = 1 set)

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Yosemite

The Yosemite wall will generally be re-set a few times a year.

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Treadwall

The Treadwall is also re-set a few times a year.