Archive
Quick Reset Update + More Gladiator Comp Photos
Sorry it’s taken so long to write up the women’s finals and the rest of the comp, we’ve been really busy resetting. Women’s finals will be up soon–later today or tomorrow night.
Reset Update
If you’ve been in the gym, you’ll see we’ve got new problems up on the Font, River, Dojo, and Back Hueco boulders. More on the Hueco and maybe the Beach tomorrow. Also, Danny will be gone for about a month–he’s headed to France to climb in the World’s Greatest Bouldering Area. Have fun Danny! Today was his last set til he gets back, and he and Connor apparently called each other before work this morning, so Annie took this photo:
Nice shirt, guys.
More Comp Photos
Several talented photographers were on hand and took some great photos of all rounds at The Gladiator Finals. You can see most of the ones we’ve seen on The Spot Facebook page. You can also link to albums from the photographers. Here are a few shots with links at the bottom in case you haven’t seen ’em yet.
Michael O’Rourke on the Men’s Final | Page Kuepper
Daniel on the Men’s Final | Katrin Bell
Matty Hong on the Men’s Final | Katrin Bell
This kid is the future, and you heard it here first. Colin Duffy. | Page Kuepper
Men’s Final | Page Kuepper
O6, Shawn Raboutou | Page Kuepper
Michael Bartley | Page Kuepper
Dave Graham | Page Kuepper
Gladiator Finals album by Ryan Nadlonek
Stay tuned, more coming soon!!!
Quick Update – Highballs & Highlines Comp This Weekend! + Reset Schedule + Hold Sale Ending Tonight!
2011 – He didn’t land it, but it was a good effort!
If you’ve been in the gym at all you’ll know that we’ve already started setting for the SBS 8 Highballs & Highlines comp. This comp will be Saturday, and so far we’re really excited about the problems. Also, the highline slacklining is really sweet to watch, and as usual we have food, drinks, beer, a DJ, a gigantic sweet raffle, Pro Finals, etc… Hope to see you there!
Pre-register and breeze through on comp day! – SBS 8 Registration
This means that The Spot will be closed tomorrow for setting. Spot members can climb for free at the BRC tomorrow and Saturday (during the comp).
Sunday The Spot is open as usual.
Monday we will begin the reset, but we are resetting differently than usual. We will be running a mini onsight- style comp for our Youth Team and some of Team ABC. This onsight-style comp will help our kids get ready for Regionals the following weekend. We will be setting the mock comp on the Dojo and Back Hueco, meaning there will be new problems there Monday night, but they will be closed off to public climbing until probably 7 or 8pm (after the mini comp is over).
Tuesday and Wednesday we will set as well, and we should have fill on most of the walls by Wednesday 4pm-ish. We will probably do River/Font on Tues and Front Hueco and/or Beach on Wednesday.
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Also, last chance on our used holds sale. We are selling them through 11pm tonight at $1 off current listed price. If they cost $1 they will now cost .50 cents. If you want ’em, come get them before they’re gone!
Quick Reset Update + An Interesting Solution
Reset Update
So in the last week we’ve reset the River, Dojo, Hueco, and today the Beach. Tomorrow is the Font, and it’ll be open around four pm. We’ve set a ton of problems of literally all grades so come on in and finish those comp projects and try out all our new lines as well.
An Interesting Solution
A popular problem at the Gladiator Finals was the intermediate on the slab. This problem consisted of two big footholds low down on the wall that you could either perch on or jump off to reach the big yellow HRT volume. From there one had to smear on the wall or jump to a large yellow Ruckus cone hold and then mantle off the volume to finish on top of the slab. A few people mantled on the volume without using the cone at all. I almost set the problem that way, but I added the cone to make the boulder a mid-intermediate instead of a low advanced. In any case, this young woman found an interesting solution to the “how-to-get-to-the-cone” problem:
Ok, so she's got the volume. Now how to get to the cone?
Ok, so maybe try a heel up?
And rock. This does not look super comfortable...
Yes, it did work. Apparently she does yoga. A lot. Nice job on finding an original solution to this boulder problem!
Highline Highball Rundown + Media Links + Slackline & Comp Results + Setting Update
Matty Hong qualifying well in the Men's Open category. He took 2nd in Finals.
Highline Highball 2011 – The Rundown
The SBS 7 Highball Highline Comp fell on a cold and snowy weekend in the beginning of December. We were a little worried the bad snow conditions would limit attendance, but climbers can’t seem to spend a full day without activity and so people braved the icy roads and the comp was packed.
The problems were a mix of styles, with R10 involving a balance move at the top, I2 being a little steep but very juggy and flowy, I6 involving a trust move, I8 a technical pressing slab, I10 also a little steep and dynamic, A1 a balance-fest, A8 an incredible journey through the Dojo roof (don’t forget to clip!), A9 a stem, A10 involving a small dyno, and the Opens running the gamut from slopey and steep to the near-vertical volume testpiece of O10 on the right river wall.
A competitor fights for it on A4 at the Highball Highline Comp
When the dust from both sessions had settled the Highliners demonstrated their skills for the crowd (who were feasting on Wahoo’s tacos, pizza, and Avery beer) and we frantically added up scores to find out who our open finalists would be. It turned out that once again junior climber Megan Mascarenas from Colorado Springs had the most points in the female category so she qualified for open finals in first. Alex Johnson barely beat out Alex Manikowski and Matty Hong to qualify in first for the men. Both held on to their leads in finals to win the comp. For the full rundown on the finals click the Open Finals Results link below.
Here are the final results from the rest of the Highline Highball Comp in the Youth and Adult categories. I will write top competitors here and the rest can be seen at the links to the full results.
Adult
Recreational Female
1. Sarah Josey
2. Ali Schultz
Recreational Male
1. Matt Melton
2. Raleigh Burrell
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Intermediate Female
1. Tracy Ng
2. Jade Sevelow
Intermediate Male
1. Luke Shaack
2. Russell Teabeault
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Advanced Female
1. Becca Bossert
2. Megan Cerise
Advanced Male
1. Brian Moore
2. Cletus Blum
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Open Female (pre-open final, adult session scores only)
1. Nina Williams
2. Tiffany Hensley
Open Male (pre-open final, adult session scores only)
1. Alex Johnson
2. Alex Manikowski
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Masters Female
1. Bobbi Bensman
2. Diane Nickerson
Masters Male
1. Pete Youngwerth
2. Rob Gilbert
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Slackline
The Highline event was another fun demonstration from some very brave and balanced individuals. This year’s winner was none other than Emily Sukiennik (below) who won over the crowd with her skillful slacking.
Highline winner 2011 - Emily Sukiennik | Photo by Jay Droeger
He didn't land it, but it was a good effort!
Youth Climbing Results
Girls Junior
1. Katelyn Hudspeth – Team BRC
Boys Junior
1. Sean Morgan – Team Spot
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Girls A
1. Laurel Todd – Team ABC
2. Tika Anderson – Team Spot
Boys A
1. Matt Lubar – Team ABC (Matt also got 6th in the Open Final)
2. Remi Arata – Team BRC
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Girls B
1. Megan Mascarenas – Team ABC (Megan also won the Open Final)
2. Isabelle Goodacre – Team ABC (Isabelle placed 4th in the Open Final)
Boys B
1. Austin Lankford – Team ABC
2. Pierce McCrerey – Team ABC
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Girls C
1. Ivy Todd – Team ABC
2. Felina Jaeger – Team Spot
Boys C
1. Timmy Dolan – Team ABC
2. Ethan Kruteck – Team ABC
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Girls D
1. Brooke Raboutou – Team ABC
2. Stella Noble – Team ABC
Boys D
1. Joe Goodacre – Team ABC
2. Liam O’Brien – Team ABC
Said Parirokh looking stylish, as usual.
Setting Update
As usual, we set every day last week to get hundreds of new problems up for you to climb on. Every wall has been reset and next week we will continue to fill in. Setting will be light through the holidays and pick up to regular speed and density again shortly after the New Year.
Don’t forget to pre-register for Gladiator Finals! This last and best comp of SBS 7 will be held on February 4th. Click here to sign up or get more info: SBS 7 ~ Registration.
Highline Highball Media
2011 Spot Bouldering Series: Highballs and Highlines Photo Gallery from Climbing Magazine
SBS Highlines & Highballs Open Results + Commercials – Alex Honnold & Katie Brown, and Chris Sharma selling watches?!
Highballs & Highlines Open Finals Results
Yes, it was exciting. As usual. Three members of Boulder’s Team ABC made finals, giving the start of the finals some orange flair. On top of that, we staggered start times due to a men’s finals no show, so our 2nd girl ABC’er and 1st guy ABC’er ended up climbing at the same time. There was SO MUCH ORANGE! I’ll write up a longer rundown later, but til then here are the results:
Men's winner Alex "Socks" Johnson staring down the Bear Claw. Photo by Jay Droeger.
Men
1. Alex “Socks” Johnson (fumbled the accursed BEAR CLAW!)
2. Matty Hong (1 move below Alex)
3. Garrett Gregor (we messed up scoring a little at comp time, Garrett actually earned 7- so he should have been 3rd)
4. Alex Manikowski (6+)
5. Michael O’Rourke (6+, qualified lower than Alex M so in 5th actually instead of 3rd)
6. Matt Lubar (6+, last qualifier so in 6th here)
Women's winner Megan Mascarenas hiking her final.
Women
1. Megan Mascarenas (flash!)
2. Nina Williams (14-)
3. Tiffany Hensley (13-, top qualifier of the next 4 climbers)
4. Isabelle Goodacre (13-)
5. Gabi Masse (13-)
6. Jesse Youngwerth (7)
I can’t find any more pictures of it yet, so here’s a picture of Maddie in the youth section of the comp.
Commercials
You may have seen this recent Citibank Ad featuring Alex Honnold and Katie Brown.
No, that is not Katie’s voice. You can read an interesting blog about how that all went down on Beth Rodden’s Blog.
But you probably didn’t know that Chris Sharma ditched his hot Spanish lifestyle and went climbing in Italy. Well, check this out:
He ties the rope, but did you see him use it?
We’re glad to see that climbers are finally getting paychecks from other industries!
Highballs & Highlines Results & Reset
We will be resetting Monday – Friday in the mornings. If you want to climb only comp style go to The Spot today. Tomorrow afternoon (after 4 is a safe bet) there will be at least 1 new wall for you. Etc. for the rest of the week until the gym is fairly full.
The rest of the SBS 7 Highballs & Highlines Wrap Up is coming later this week. Photos, full results, and more. Stay tuned, and see you at The Spot!
Gladiator Finals Reset Update
As usual after a big competition, the setters spent the week resetting as quickly as possible so you will have a ton of new stuff to climb on. Some of us were tired, some of us were sore, and some of us were a little goofy, but we got problems up on the whole River wall, the whole Dojo, the whole Hueco, and the whole Beach. Tomorrow the Font may see some problems, depending on the outcome of tonight’s Beta session. No, really, it just depends on everybody’s busy schedule. Anyways, here are some pictures from the last four days:
On Monday, Carlo dropped a wrench on his face.
On Tuesday, Jon got back from the tradeshow and brought Danny a backpack with his picture on it from their mutual sponsor Revolution. We made him wear it all day.
Then Jon set a very creative start to a boulder in the right dojo.
Danny solved the problem another way, but Jon didn't really fit...
Carlo had to try it out as well...
Then Carlo became a "happy baby chalk bucket" which Jon had to try out. Nic watched with amusement from a hold bucket.
When we got back from lunch we found that somebody made their own very rugged parking spot.
Carlo sporting new Verve 4-way stretch camo Xeno pants while Danny foreruns the Beach.
Danny demonstrating the correct spotting position while Jonny does Carlo's technical blue 5- on the far right beach.
Left River
Right River
Right Dojo
Left Dojo
Hueco Front Scoop
Hueco Front Small Scoop
Hueco Back Scoop
Left Beach
Left Middle Beach
Right Beach
Enjoy!
Highball/Highline Video from Jon Glassberg + Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9 + The Little Banana
Highline/Highball Video
Jon put together this nice short video with highlights from finals and the slackline competition.
Setting Update 12/8 & 12/9
Here are a few photos from yesterday and today’s setting sessions. With our set of the Beach today we’ve got 4/5ths of the gym reset. Yay!!!
The Hueco New Frontside
The Hueco New Backside
Carlo set this sloper problem on the Hueco yesterday, and nobody climbed on it but Carlo when we were forerunning. We thought this single handprint this morning was pretty funny.
New Left Beach
New Right Beach
New Middle of the Beach
See that blur in the left side of the picture? That's Carlo falling off the crazy sideways dyno he set on the new white problem. At least he didn't faceplant this time like he did on his first try.
The Little Banana
I stopped at the store on the way home today for a few things, and I found these bananas, which struck me as funny:
The Little Banana
We’re famous! + Setting Update
Us. Newspaper. Ha!
Well, while we were going to lunch on the hill we ran into our buddy Greg Mionske who was out taking photos for the Colorado Daily (a local paper that reprints local, national, and international news stories and other little interesting bits that are aimed at college students). He took our picture for the society pages, and today, there we are! Check it:
Us, courtesy of the Colorado Daily. Click the pic for the CO Daily site.
Setting Update
Today we added problems all over the Hueco boulder. Now we have reset both sides of the River and Dojo and done light fill on the Hueco. Enjoy!
Highline/Highball Resetting Update #1 + A Silly Headdress
Monday
As usual, we began our reset on the river granite wall. Jay Jay was in school, so the team for Monday was me, Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, and guest setter Gabor Szekely.
- Gabor | GS
Gabor has been a route setter on and off for several years and has also climbed up to 5.14d, onsighted up to 13d, and bouldered V13 outside. He occasionally competes as a member of the Hungarian National Team (his home country, though he was raised in the US) he got 18th at last year’s Vail World Cup.
New right river
We set some 40 boulders on the river wall, 1 spot to 5+ spot.
New Left River
Tuesday
That’s right folks, we reset the Dojo! Carlo, Jon, Jonny, Garrett, Danny, me, and guest setter Connor Griffith (who just got back from Switzerland with Carlo and Jon) covered the Dojo in problems including several juggy climbs out the roof of varying difficulties and, on the left bulge, a slightly-easier simulator of a V13 from Black Mountain called Bang-On. Here are some pictures of the wall and the beginning of the simulator.
Connor Griffith | CG
The New Dojo
Bang-On Simulator start hold
Kelly McBride showing how strong you have to be to climb the Bang-On Simulator.
Headdress
We stripped the stickers off the wall as we set the new problems on the Dojo. You may have seen some of ’em stuck on ladders or in designs on our foothold bucket. Today I made a headdress out of some of ’em.
Me modeling version 1 of the headdress
Jaime wearing Version 2 at the Front Desk
Setting Update 11.3.2010
Well, the reset stage 1 is complete. Today we set the Beach, and now we’ve put up new problems on every wall in the gym. All the Psychedelia hanging objects are down. Don’t despair though, cause we replaced the big hanging features with other moves so the finals problems still exist, they’re just slightly different now. Next week we’ll start adding problems to already set walls. We won’t start stripping ’til the first week of December when we set for the next comp, so you have ’til then to do your projects. Just so you know.
Lately a few people have mentioned grades, as in not being able to find as many problems of a grade as they’d like to see. We’ve made a big effort to keep a reasonable and regular grade bell curve in the gym, and with the reset we have approximately 168 boulder problems in the gym from 1 spot to 5+ spot. Bear in mind that some terrain won’t accept certain grades of problem, so in those cases we do our best so set jug hauls that may be graded 2, 2+, or even 3- but that will be doable with a small amount of climbing experience. Further breakdown, for the interested:
1-, 1, 1+ spots – 14
2-, 2, 2+ spots – 6, 9, 9 = 24
3-, 3, 3+ spots – 20, 12, 10 = 42
4-, 4, 4+ spots – 16, 17, 17 = 50
5-, 5, 5+ spots – 14, 10, 14 = 38
In the next 2 weeks before Thanksgiving we will keep filling in the gaps and adding to all the grades so everyone has new problems to work on up until the next comp. Enjoy!
The Spot Route Setting Blog 