World Cup Millau – Problem 3

Women’s Problem 3

7a+

Anna is falling off. Mantling up a wall on volumes. Got the bonus (2nd or 3rd go?). Finished the boulder.

Katha starts to mantle but falls. Falls again. Starts to mantle, grabs the tiny handhold mid-wall to help the mantle, but can’t get her left foot up to stand. Jumped to the bonus but didn’t stick it. Done.

Jule flashed. Yeah!

Tiny thumbercling to help with the mantle

Standing up to bonus.

Jule at the top!

Akiyo did another ridiculous stem/mantle. She may have the most flexible hips ever. The female announcer is trying to describe it and failing. Akiyo makes it to bonus, does a ridiculous stand up, jumps to the finish. Flashes!

Akiyo stepped up for the last move instead of jumping off the lower left foot.

Akiyo sticks!

Shauna came out next. She looked good on the mantle, didn’t quite hit the undercling out right exactly right, but it didn’t seem to matter. Sized up the last move, jumped big, got it (but it looked like barely!). Great!

Shauna at the start.

Shauna standing it up

Shauna nearly missed hitting this well, but she didn’t look too stressed about it.

Alex struggled to get up on the mantle and fell off at least twice. Third go looked better, she touched bonus before falling.

Alex on her first go.

Alex figured out the mantle–it was pretty technical for her.

Alex got mad and made it work even though it looked like she might fall. Good power Alex!

~

Men’s Problem 3

“the hardest” 7b+ (V8, like prob 2) but harder the head setter thinks

Lucas is falling off. First move a deadpoint to a gaston of a volume. Sticks it and messes around on volumes but can’t get anywhere. Sort of gets his right foot up, then falls. Done.

Kilian is in first as of now, with 2 tops. Falls from the start repeatedly. Can’t seem to get the first move, or even bonus. Done.

Guillaume had a similar experience. Eventually changed his shoes. Stuck the first move, got on the volumes, touched bonus, foot out right, fell. Fell more. Stuck first move again and fell more. Done.

Rustam Gelmanov didn’t do the first move.

Jorg eventually did do the first, but fell trying to control the bonus. Then he quit and walked off with 19 seconds left.

Dmitrii was last. He actually figured out the bottom of the problem, got bonus, got his foot out right, got his body over, and fell moving up to the last two holds. Unfortunately he’s scored the same as everyone else who got bonus, so still in 5th.

Dmitrii using another method.